Used a razor blade and WD to remove the silicone and cleaned the holes up. Drilled my 3 holes after dry fitting my plug wish I wrote down what size bit and screws I used. I think they are 7 stainless steel but I bought packs of 7, 8, 9. Coat of adhesive around hole and in all drilled holes.
Coated my new plug with lots of sealant Made sure I had adhesive come out everywhere Added the 3 screws and tightened them down each a little at a time for even pressure Finished install just used a paper towel to clean off all excess adhesive and made sure to clean out the screw bit heads as they had some adhesive in them. Somehow I don't have a final image with the plugs will snap one tonight but they look dang good! Last edited: Apr 18, Danielmailin it was your post that helped me get mine done.
That looks a heck of a lot better than factory! I'll be curious to see if that helped with the bilge water. I was getting water in the changing area floor each night like yours, even when it didn't rain. Check out my last post on the drain plug and where does the water go it will explain why this wont help. Davidrbjr Well-Known Member. Davidrbjr said:. Nice job and write up Billy Marlin! Where did you buy the new plug?
DonWon Jet Boat Addict. Billy Marlin Where did you get those plugs from? Brand and model? I need to do mine. If interested, here's the one's I've got coming now. On sale. Not a big deal but I ended up choosing bronze as I'm getting close to retirement and may be spending more time in the warm salt.
Got mine off amazon and finally got to test them this weekend. They are the same ones as posted above. The boat hull is dry as a bone and I could not be happier.
Between my new auto bilge and plugs feeling a lot better about leaving my boat in the water. When you drill the holes and place screws can you access to put a nut on the other side? What type of screw did you use? I just used 8 if memory serves oval head stainless sheet metal screws. It would be a pain in the butt to put nuts a on a machine screw in that location. Plus stainless nuts and bolts tend to gall and become impossible to take apart after time. Use good quality marine adhesive sealant on everything and you won't have any problems.
The adhesive sealant will be doing all the work once it dries. Life Seal, 3M , 3M would all be good. Last edited: Apr 16, Thank you. Picked them up at west marine today and they are going in this week along with underwater lights. That sounds about right got mine at Lowes and you definitely want to use the good Marine Adhesive.
Search forums. Log in. Install the app. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. How do I install the brass drain plug tube? Thread starter timbo Start date Jun 7, Joined May 12, Messages I picked up a new drain plug tube for the transom today. How is the best way to install this unit? It is flared on one end and I know the other end needs to be flared after it is fit into the transom, but I was told that it takes a special tool to do this.
I guess this is where I fabricate something. Any ideas how? I don't have a machine shop to make the tool.
Boomyal Supreme Mariner. Joined Aug 16, Messages 12, Re: How do I install the brass drain plug tube? Funny, I just looked at one today at Boaters World. It was as you said and there were absolutely no instructions on the card it was packed with. It's the same as pictured here at iboats.
I put it back on the hook and walked away. I have the same question as you. The employees are totally worthless at the local BW. Terry H Lieutenant Commander. Joined Sep 25, Messages 1, Somebody makes and sells a flanging tool, I've seen it for sale This last year I need to do the job and ran into the same situation so I made one out of some old plumbing parts.
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